EVOLUTION OF A TRADITIONAL SHIRT AMONG THE KRASNOUFIMSK MARIS IN THE SECOND HALF OF THE 19th AND EARLY 20th CENTURIES

Abstract

The research object in this paper is a shirt as part of a traditional costume among the Mari people from Krasnoufimsk District of Sverdlovsk Oblast, Russian Federation. The research subject includes the processes of development and modification of the folk costume shapes that occurred in the late 19 and early 20 centuries. The paper is based on the author’s field materials obtained in 2002 and 2006, collection of the Museum of Archeology and Ethnography, IES UFIC RAS, photo collection of the IHLL UFIC RAS and previously published materials on the topic of this paper. The aim of the research is to identify the development trends of a traditional shirt among the Krasnoufimsk Maris in the late 19 and early 20 centuries as well as the factors affecting the evolutionary transformations in its design, colouring and decoration. In accordance with the aims of the research, the author has set the following objectives: To give a detailed description of peculiar features in design and decoration of archaic white linen shirts of the 19th century and fabric cotton shirts of the 20 century; To reveal, on these grounds, their stable traits preserved in the 20 century, on the one hand, and innovations in design and decoration, on the other hand; To determine the sequence of changes. The research shows that changes in the traits of Krasnoufimsk Mari shirts were in line with the processes of modernization of the traditional costume among the peoples of the region in the late 19 and early 20 centuries (replacing white linen with coarse cotton fabric, homespun braid used in decoration with red calico strips, homespun thread for weaving with store-bought one, hand woven cloths for sewing with manufactured fabrics), this being primarily explained by the affordability of manufactured goods and their increased use in sewing and decoration. Another factor contributing to the development of the traditional costume among the peoples of the region during the period under investigation was interethnic interaction. On the shirts of the Krasnoufimsk Maris, a definite, although relatively slight, influence of the neighbouring Turkic-speaking peoples can be seen in decorative motives.