«BASHKIRIZATION» OF COSTUME COMPLEXES OF UDMURTS AND MARI PEOPLE OF BASHKORTOSTAN

Abstract

The article examines the process of formation of regional variants of traditional costumes. The data of researchers of the 18th - early 20th centuries (P. S. Pallas, N. P. Rychkov, V. M. Cheremshansky, I. N. Smirnov, P. Eruslanov, U. Holmberg, etc.) and materials of Finno-Ugric museum collections are summarized. It is noted that consideration of "Udmurt", "Mari", "Bashkir" and other traditions can be considered with a high degree of conditionality, based on the long stage of the Finno-Ugric-Turkic community and the allocation of ethnoses with the discrepancy of their ethno-cultural boundaries. It is shown that in the works of the past centuries, the Bashkirs were generalized with the Tatars, meaning the Tatars as «eastern» peoples. Official statistics show that in the studied areas (Birsky, Belebeyevsky, Menzelinsky uezds of the Ufa province),) we are talking primarily about the Bashkirs. According to a corpus of sources, the evolution of costumes of the Udmurts and Mari people of Bashkortostan went the same way. At the end of the 18th century, the perception of individual elements (girls' headdresses) observed. In the first half of the 19th century there was "Bashkirization" of men's costume (borrowing headdresses, upper swing clothing camisole and beshmet). Udmurt and Mari women's costumes found themselves in a single stream of ethno-cultural changes, along with Bashkir and Tatar, during the democratization of society, the formation of a single trade, economic and ethno-cultural space with changing fashion. In the middle of the 19th century, traditional white-canvas clothing, products made of krashenina and pestryad, as well as manufactured clothing, coexisted among different peoples. New fabrics first used as an element of finishing products, then independently. Bright colors and jewelry made of coins were preferred. The cut and methods of decorating clothes have become multivariate. The image of the "Bashkir" Udmurts and Mari people formed.